Was craving for a vacation somewhere warm but new, also not too far and not too expensive. Tunisia had been on the list for quite some time. Some history, some sun, good food, very few tourists, chaotic citylife. It was great!
First up, the capital, Tunis.
Tunis is a city that surprises you in the best way. From wandering through the colourful alleys of the historic medina to sipping mint tea at a rooftop café overlooking the city, there’s a unique mix of tradition and modern life everywhere you look.
Tunis has been an important centre for trade, culture, and politics for centuries. Its history dates back to around 9th century BC, when it was established by the Phoenicians. It became a major trading hub and later developed into a powerful city under the Roman Empire. It's also known for its role in the Arab expansion, as it became a prominent city during the Islamic era. It was the capital of the Aghlabid dynasty in the 9th century and continued to play an important role in the Maghreb region.
I stayed for a couple of days in a lovely backpacker hostel: Nomads hostel Tunisia. Absolutely loved the closeness to medina and the city, yet some peace and quiet and all the animals running around.
The cats were definitely not shy.
The National Monument of Kasbah - a 22 meter tall modernist memorial in the center of Kasbah Square facing the City Hall.
Makloub and Fricasse - delicious, cheap, filling snacks you can buy everywhere on the street.
The Medina of Tunis. Loved wandering through the narrow, winding streets and bustling souks without really having a plan - as always, every turn reveals something new, from vibrant shops and beautiful old doorways to tiny cafés tucked away in the maze. The UNESCO World Heritage site is busy and full of life - the mix of history, local culture, friendly atmosphere, scents of spices and colourful carpets makes it the heart of Tunis.
After Medina, very different Tunis awaits: Avenue Habib Bourguiba towards the train station and the sea. Often called the “Champs-Élysées of Tunis,” the wide, palm-lined boulevard is full of cafés, shops, and colonial-era buildings, making it the perfect place to slow down after the busy and often chaotic medina. Towards the waterfront, the bustling streets gradually give way to a more relaxed vibe, with views of the marina and the Gulf of Tunis. At the end of the boulevard is also the train station that connects Tunis to Carthage, Sidi Bou Said etc.
Good morning!
Views from the Panorama cafe - although the mint tea is a bit more expensive, definitely worth it for the views.
Zitouna Mosque, one of the oldest mosques in North Africa. It is also home to the oldest university in continuous operation, Ez-Zitouna University, established in 737 AD during the Umayyad Caliphate.
Some delicious 'Ojja' to end the night. We found a very local spot on a square in the medina. And, although days were close to 30 degrees hot, nights got quite chilly, mind you, it's still the very beginning of April.
Bardo National Museum – arguably 3rd biggest museum in Africa, famous for its incredible collection of Roman mosaics, Islamic art, and historical artefacts. It's said to hold one of the largest and most famous collections of Roman mosaics in the world.The museum was established in 1888 by the French during their colonial rule in Tunisia. It was initially set up to house the country’s archaeological findings.
Take some time to explore, it's huge! The moment you think you're almost through it, you'll find new corners, new stairs and mosaics. An absolutely wonderful museum!
It is quite cold inside, needed to go out to the garden occasionally to warm up. Luckily there's a nice cafeteria.
A trip to Carthage is a must when in Tunisia. Walking among the ancient ruins, it’s incredible to imagine that this was once one of the most powerful cities in the Mediterranean. The archaeological sites are spread across a peaceful, green area overlooking the sea, so exploring them never feels rushed. In fact, it's one of the weirdest experiences being on an archeological site, as between some spots there is quite some distance when you're walking on regular streets between luxurious villas, and then bam, you're next to an old Roman Forum.
Carthage was founded by the Phoenicians from Tyre (modern-day Lebanon) around 814 BC. According to legend, Queen Dido led the settlers and established the city. The name Carthage comes from "Qart Hadasht" meaning "New City" in Phoenician. The city became a major trading hub in the Mediterranean due to its strategic location and established colonies and trade routes across North Africa, Spain, Sicily, and the Western Mediterranean. Carthage was destroyed in the Third Punic War during The Punic Wars with Rome (264–146 BC). Rome rebuilt Carthage in 44 BC under Julius Caesar. It became one of the richest cities in the Roman Empire and a major centre for Christianity. Today, Carthage is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with famous ruins (e.g the Byrsa Hill, Antonine Baths, and the Punic Ports) reflecting the regions Phoenician, Roman, and early Christian history.
It is easy to go to Sidi Bou said from Carthage. From the Punic Necropolises and Antonine Therms it's either a few train stations or a half an hour walk. I decided to take a scenic walk along the coast, which worked great until I got there. As Sidi Bou Said is situated on a hill, had to find a way up. There were some steep stairs that people were going towards, so followed them.. until they started to come back down, apparently it was closed as there was water and mud coming down the road. Oh well, back down we go. Finally, ended up continuing the car road, it was also quite steep, killer views tho!
Sidi Bou Said, located about 20 km away from Tunis, is one of Tunisia’s most iconic and picturesque villages. Famous for its whitewashed houses, bright blue doors and windows, and breathtaking views over the Mediterranean, it has long been a favourite retreat for artists, writers, and travellers. A peaceful postcard-perfect place to slow down after a long day of exploring.
In Tunisian dialect “Sidi” means “Saint”, so the name translates to "Saint Bou Said". It's named after Abu Said al-Baji, a 13th-century Sufi saint who lived and was buried there. The town’s signature blue-and-white color scheme was introduced in the early 20th century, inspired by Mediterranean and Andalusian architecture. It truly looks like Santorini!
These were some long-ass stairs! Especially when the first climb up was for nothing.
Bambalouni - Tunisian doughnuts!
Great views from the rooftop of Art Cafe.
Second half of the trip I just wanted to unwind and chill. Hammamet is the perfect place to do it with its relaxed atmosphere, long sandy beaches and crystal-clear waters. Beyond the beach, you’ll find a charming old medina, a scenic marina, and plenty of cafés and restaurants to enjoy fresh seafood and local dishes.
Stayed at Hotel Bel Azur Thalasso & Bungalows. Lovely resort, seaview rooms, all-inclusive option, food varies (heaps of seafood and local options), lots of entertainment and all for a very decent price.
Tunisia also makes wine. From what I tasted tho, surprisingly whites are better than reds.
Promenade towards Medina.
As always, getting back home was a bit of an adventure as well.
If there is one thing I'll complain about in Tunis, is infrastructure. When in Tunis the train towards Carthage route worked more or less well. I'm not sure there still was a timetable tho, then almost anything else does not have a timetable, or even many bus or train options. Most long distance travel is done by the louages ('marshrutkas' ). The problem with them is, they go when full, so you never know how long you have to wait or when is the last of the day. Getting to Hammamet went smooth, I was basically the last person on the louage, so we went almost immediately. Going back worked out quite well as well, we waited around 15 minutes or so, but, I would have gone couple hours later if I'd known there would be that option. My local friends warned that especially on a Sunday, they might stop the service quite early.
Got back to Tunis, there was supposed to be a tram back towards the marina, where there was supposed to be an airport bus. Got to the tram stop, bought a ticket. The guy selling tickets, said there should be one in the next 20 minutes. There were other people waiting as well. 10 minutes later he came and announced that no trams today as something electrical happened. Ok, never mind, I had time, walked to the marina. Somebody even pointed me to the airport bus station. Station is a bit much to say, as it was a few benches in a courtyard. There came and went some people, seems they came there just to sit tho. I was chatting with a local, who said there indeed is an airport bus, if it will come anymore on that day, is questionable tho.
Finally, gave up and took a cab. As I was with a local, it was easier to actually get on it as well. Taxis are quite cheap in Tunisia, but, getting them is another thing. There is an app, but, it does not work exactly like Bolt or Uber. First you set a price, you can even bargain on the app, then when the taxi accepts (often it takes some time) and gets close, they usually call you, nevermind the app should show location, they mostly only speak French, and want you to come to some other place easier to them. When you manage to find the driver, as you pay in cash, they often still haggle with the price. So all in all, that defeats the purpose of an app. As I was literally leaving, I was running low on cash, so tried to rely on public transport, but all worked out in the end. :)
Oh, and Lufthansa was on strike, 90% of the flights were cancelled on Monday, especially ones flying through Frankfurt. Quess what, I was flying through Frankfurt, early Monday morning. Miraculously both of my flights went and I even arrived half an hour early.
Until next time!
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