The adventures continue.
The majestic Taj Mahal of Agra, India.
We were picked up by Dev at 6am to start driving from Delhi before the crazy traffic of the capital gets back to peak time, also to avoid the queues of the Taj.
The Great Gate that leads to the gardens surrounding the Taj Mahal is impressive in itself, made of red sandstone with intricate marble work and beautiful archways.
The first look was quite unforgettable.
The view of the Taj Mahal from the main entrance is that snapshot that you’ve seen a thousand times, but seeing it actually come closer and closer in front of your eyes is quite great.
The stunning white marble mausoleum was built in the 17th century by Mughal King Shah Jahan in memory of his wife, Mumtaz Mahal, in Agra, about 200km from the Indian capital, New Delhi. She bore him 14 children. It was during her fourteenth delivery that she underwent a painful 30-hour labour that brought her to her death.
The king was so grief stricken by the death of his (third) wife that he wanted to build the most impressive mausoleum ever created. Kind of puts other husbands to shame, no?
As the Taj is not a palace, it's not grandiose and impressive inside, but really just one big empty room, serving as a mausoleum. The king got himself buried next to his wife later.
It took almost 12 years for constructing the mausoleum and the platform around it and another 10 years for the remaining structures of the complex – the four minarets, the mosque, the guesthouse and the gateway. It's a completely symmetrical building complex and looks exactly the same (to every detail) from every angle you look at it. That makes it completely unique in the world.
The Taj Mahal is one of the 7 wonders of the modern world and attracts more than 6 million tourists a year.
Beat the crowds and go early (meaning if you go from Delhi, leave before sunrise).
It's closed on Fridays.
The entrance for foreigners is 1000 rupees, make sure you buy your ticket from a right place ,not from the dozens of people screaming they're selling the tickets around the gates.
Bags are not allowed inside.
We went to see Agra Fort, but only a quick look from the outside as we were headed to Jaipur to see the Amer Fort. In Agra Fort close to 80 % is closed as it is used by the military.
The reliefic patterns inside the white marble.
I think this meal started our undying love for paneer. In every kind of sauce basically. this one in particular is in spinach sauce, and it's delicious beyond words. The restaurant was a cosy little place with a garden by the highway from Agra to Jaipur. On a sidenote somebody followed us to the restaurant's bathroom later and tried to help us with handing soap or paper towels directly to us (from the counter) and asking money for it. I'm not sure if she even worked there.
Altho our driver was as much of a maniac as most of the drivers in India, the ride was quite smooth. Just once the cardied in the middle of the road and quite some time refused to keep going.
One of the top places to visit in Jaipur is Galta Ji, also known as the Monkey Temple. It’s situated in a valley between the mountains just outside Jaipur.
Watch out for the monkeys (they don’t call it Monkey temple for nothing!). I wouldn't carry shiny objects and bananas.
Galta Ji is a large Hindu temple complex that is home to a large colony of monkeys. It is centered around a natural spring that has been channeled to fill seven large pools. In these pools pilgrims come to bath away their sins while other times, the playful monkeys can be found swimming in the holy waters.
There was a long and winding road going to the mountains from the end of the stairs after the last temples. we walked on it a bit as it was heading to the sun temple. It was already sunset so we went back down. What I read later, this road actually goes to Jaipur through the old city gate. It's quite a hike but apparently well worth it when coming during daytime.
There is no entrance fee to visit the temple but holy men may ask for a donation, also 50-100 rupees is asked for camera fee if you wanna take photos (which you probably do!).
Whenever you are asked to enter some temples watch out, because they wanna get you into the mazes and perform some rituals and of course charge you for it.
At some point a young man started following us, we did try to ditch him but he was quick to catch up saying random things at random moments, like, "this is a monkey house" or "this is a monkey pool". When he realized we were about to leave he yelled "20 rupees" after us. Not that it's a lot of money or anything, but seriously, for what.. monkey pool?
The temple complex itself is one of the most unforgettable ones I've seen! I'd go again and take that hike!
The hostels/hotels almost never match to what is advertised on their homepage. This one was suppose to be an air-conditioned nice room with a good view and fast internet. The room had no aircon, wifi nor a view. The only window was the one below (in the bathroom), well if you stuck your head out of that you had some kind of a view I guess. Most places in India only have wifi in the reception. At least there it works (once you have checked in) as it is always connected to your name and room number. Warm water is on and off as well. Many places actually have it but there is always the most ridiculous system to get it working.. eg turn many knobs and push many buttons, wait, and push some more buttons. The lights never went from one place as well, every bulb has its own switch.
Also, the door locked with a proper pad-lock!
An amazing crazy-busy local spot for Indian-Afgan food!
A tip, if there is no parking space, park on the middle of the street behind others and just mention to somebody that if needed you will be in that restaurant. That's what Dev did anyway, and in the end nobody cared.
Jaipur itself is a beautiful town. As it is mainly a muslim town, there are very few women on the streets.
Jaipur stands out because of the amazing architecture, palaces, forts and temples, but it is a lively town full of bazaars, which have everything but are often calmer and less exhausting than the ones in Delhi. The vendors like to have a genuine chat and talk about your country and much else. They give good bargains and advice even. Leave before they get too friendly and invite you to dinner with their whole family or before you catch them solely staring at you with puppy eyes.
Traffic is always crazy, no news there. There was a Muslim festival during our visit, so it was probably even crazier. Tuk-tuks tend to be a bit more expensive than in Delhi or Mumbai for example.
The Amer Fort.
Renowned as the ancient citadel of the Kachwahs clan, the Amer fort is one of the prominent tourist attraction in Jaipur and a UNESCO world heritage site. The palace is enormous, consisting of many smaller palaces, courtyards, stairs and gardens. Take some time to wander.
Ganesh Pol - the majestic main gate heading to the first palace, painted with vegetable dyes.
Jal Mahal - Water Palace.
The symmetrical palace, that once was a shooting lodge for the Maharajah, appears to float in the centre of Sagar Lake on the way to Amber Fort. It is to be transformed into an ultra exclusive restaurant.
Gaitore ki Chhatriyan is a royal cremation place for the majestic rulers of Jaipur. It's lesser explored but presents spectacular architectural brilliance, I would not miss it. It’s a calm and peaceful place, away from the hustle and bustle of bazaars of Jaipur.
"Gaitore" means the last house of departed souls.
Gaitor is at a foothill having Nahargarh Fort on the left side and Garh Ganesh temple on the right side. The premises of Gaitore contain several tombs and mausoleums of almost the entire Kacchhawa dynasty that ruled over Jaipur from 1727AD to 1947AD.
Hawa Mahal - Wind Palace
Built in the dusk of 17th century by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh, Hawa Mahal in Jaipur is one of the most distinctive landmarks of India. Being given a shape of the crown of Lord Krishna, this pyramidal palace is a red and pink sandstone construction which rises to five-storeys. The name Hawa Mahal means palace of winds and the structure is famous for its open windows, which are named as Jharokhas in the local language.
Sunset from the mountains.
We hiked up to the mountains on our last day. There were stairs and roads going up next to the Gaitore. It was serene and peaceful up there especially after our argument with the tourist office (we were promised a night train, the one we wanted was sold out, they just forgot to mention it when we "booked it" with them and paid for it, so the one they booked in the end was slower and left earlier in the day, they did not see a problem, as it also drove through the night, so it's a night train). The views are amazing and the nature feels untouched. Worth the hike.
The first look at our first train ride. Jaipur to Mumbai. Supposed to be 17 hours, was close to 20 in the end. The first look was terrifying, but is not half bad in the end. Altho sleeping in the middle feels quite like being inside the cupboard. People are loud and do not stay put. Somebody is always selling something and after every 10 minutes a guy walks past yelling "chai, chai". Also, do not get the cheapest class tickets! Air-conditioned sleeper 3-tier is both affordable and doable. Get snacks and drinks and stuff to do. It's a long, slow, winding road but quite an experience.
To be continued.
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