Bosnia and Herzegovina

Out of all the Balkan countries we visited this June, I loved Bosnia the most. Mostar and it's surroundings are unbelievably gorgeous and also the gruesome, often sad and very recent history is worth learning about (and from). 

The iconic Stari Most. 

We stepped off our nightbus around 6.30 and walked around 25 minutes to our hostel. A lovely small homey family business, hostel Nina. I very much recommend that hostel if you're going to visit Mostar. We got there at 7 am, the mother of one of the owners came to the door, directly gave us our room, said we can pay later and even asked us to come to breakfast in an hour, altho we weren't technically there for that night. We powernapped for 50 minutes and met others for a good breakfast. They talked us into coming for a nearby surroundings tour that started at 9am. Sleep is for the weak anyway. It was totally the best decision, we were with such fun people who we ended up hanging out later as well, also it was probably the sunniest and hottest day of the trip. And, the tour was excellent as well! 

First stop was a hidden gem just out of Mostar, a huge abandoned aircraft hangar from war-time. The high, cement ceiling is molded into a smooth curve, creating a huge concrete cavern filled with nothing but debris and echoes. The sounds are haunting. The rooms inside are quite a maze, we left our footprint on the wall in one of the rooms, as that is something our guide said collects from all his guests.

The abandoned garage was once a top secret facility hidden next to the Mostar airport. Yugoslavian revolutionary Josip Tito had fighter jets place in the mountain, ready to deploy. The natural fortress protected the planes from attack and kept them secret from spies.

Next up: Blagaj (Blagag Tekke). The absolutely beautiful place is situated at the spring of the Buna river. It was built around 1520, with elements of Ottoman architecture and is nowadays considered a national monument. Blagaj is considered to be one of Bosnias most holy and ancient sites. Also known as the Dervish Monastery, it was built to host gatherings of the Sufi Brotherhood.

Third stop was in Pocitelj - a beautiful ancient Ottoman era fortress village known for its 15th century Oriental architecture. It's a short hike up. The views are breathtaking and around every corner there is something picture perfect. Don't forget to buy fresh berries or pomegranate juice from the lovely locals, firstly, it helps them a lot, and secondly the fresh juice is just so refreshing and delicious, especially on a hot day like ours. 

Established in 1383 by King Stjepan Tvrtko I, the walled town evolved through the 16th-18th centuries and showcases both Ottoman and medieval influences in its architecture. It was badly damaged during the 1992-1996 Bosnian War by Croatian forces. 

Around 40 kms outside of Mostar are the Kravice Waterfalls. Around 25 metres high, the waterfalls cascade into a stunning emerald coloured lake. It's such a beautiful spot to hike, swim, enjoy great food and relax. It's said Kravice is not that well known among tourists, it is mostly visited by locals. To be honest we heard the local language there a lot more than we heard English. 

Pomegranate! 

Before ending the tour back in Mostar in the evening, we drove up to the mountains for the view and for a history lesson. It's possible and not that difficult to hike up there as well, just do not step off the path, as there might be grenades or other explosives. 

The 33 m tall cross on the Hum Hill dominates the city. It is illuminated even at night. It seems peaceful, but there is as much controversy to it, as half the town is Catholic and half Muslim. 

The gang.

On the second day we got together again with the gang and decided to visit the infamous Sniper tower. The Sniper Tower used to be a bank (The Glass Bank). Positioned along the frontline during the Bosnian War, the building was a base for snipers who would hide in the tower to take aim at their targets below. The targets were often innocent civilians.

Now, the tower is decorated with street art. It’s not encouraged (or permitted), but the building is quite easy to enter:  jump over the wall or climb over some fence. There's a lot of debris, but it's possible to walk up the various stairs, climb a ladder and reach the roof, which gives a beautiful view of Mostar and its surroundings. It's sad and beautiful at the same time. 

Bosnian War raged between 1992 and 1996, killing hundreds of thousands and displacing millions. It was the first case of genocide to occur in Europe since the Second World War. It happened just over 20 years ago and has left permanent scars on Bosnia and the lives of its people. Everyone was directly affected or at least had a family member affected. Bosnia has still a lot to do to recover from their violent past. It’s not only the buildings that were destroyed.

Bullet holes are visible in many of the buildings around. 

Good deed of the day - save the kitten. We helped the little lost one back to his mom and brother/sister. 

Eating out in the old town. Pick whatever place, the food is cheap and delicious and the people are so friendly - in that place, they gave us free shots of the national liquor before and after dinner and free dessert. How can You not love Bosnia already. 

The evenings were spent at Zika's bar. Yes, the hostel owner owns a bar as well, right next to the bridge in the old town, with the best view! The crowd is always bubbly and international. 

The bridge is gorgeous from every angle. Stari Most is a 16th century, Ottoman-style bridge and Mostar’s most notable architectural landmark. Stretching 28 metres across the Neretva river, it connects the two sides of the city.

Stari Most proudly had been there for 427 years, until it was destroyed in 1993 during the Bosnian War. Thankfully a new bridge was built in 2004. The bridge is actually curvier than it looks, with slippery shoes on it is quite hard to walk up and down! Especially when it rains. It is also a hot spot for bridge jumping.  You can step over the reeling and plunge 20 metres into the cold river below. Obviously you should have some experience. You ask and they test if you are ready to do it or not. Then you pay (or ask money from the tourists who wanna see you jump, like the locals who demonstrate the jumps, do). On of our friends, Jessy, was crazy enough to do the jump twice. 

Coming back to the bridge, Stari Most is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a symbol of unity for an ethnically divided city.

When we left Mostar, after another late night, we had decided to go by train, to enjoy the most amazing views en route to Sarajevo.. Right, slept every minute of the train ride, literally, did not see a thing. On a "plus side" it was really foggy that morning, so we probably wouldn't have seen much anyway. Also thanks again to Nina's hostel. They even took us to train station in the morning. All things considered, we definitely have to return one day. First of, to see more of Bosnia, and second, still gotta get these views on that train ride.  

Sarajevo

Like in Mostar, also in the capital city Sarajevo, east meets west, mountains meet the city and traditional meets modern. It's multicultural. The old town is small and walkable, relaxed and lovely to be at. It's history is as horrendous as Mostar's. The food is still as cheap, and as good. There's lot to explore.

PS: Sarajevo also happens to be home to the bridge where Franz Ferdinand was shot, kicking off the First World War. 

Bosnia had amazing coffee in general. This little cafeteria was an exception. It was basically instant coffee, but the waiter was extremely eager. How can you break one's heart, when he is beaming into your face, asking if everything is great. 

As Bosnia and Serbia do not have the easiest past and overall relations as well, there was no direct bus from Sarajevo to Belgrad. We decided to hitchhike, we did our home work walked our way out f centre, bought snacks, and got on the road. Got a car fairly quick and easy. He took us some 100 km, then got another car, who took us somewhere as well. Neither of the drivers spoke much English. We communicated in German/sign/Russian mostly. The last driver wanted to take us to dinner and buy us coka cola, but couldn't really take us much further than a strange little town, somewhere. He dropped us in front of a patrolling police car and said this is as good of a place as any. 

We tried to ask directions from the police. There was an older guy and a younger guy. The older one said immediately he does not speak English, but the younger one does. The younger listened to our monologue, nodded politely, and then started in full Bosnian/Serbian.. I don't really know. 

Long story short, in that little town, or a village, there was a bus stop, from where actually went a direct bus to Belgrad, Serbia, where we needed to go. Only thing, they only accepted cash for bus tickets, which we did not have. And that town did not have an ATM, or if it did, nobody knew where. In the end good old maps.me app discovered a possible ATM at a local store. We got the cash and made it to the bus, barely. Possibly it was the only one in the day. 

We got to Belgrad in the late afternoon, spent the evening there, and took another nightbus back to Sofia, Bulgaria, where we started, as our flight was from there on a Sunday afternoon. Last wines and meats on another sunny and hot day before leaving. Balkans, You impressed me! 

And lets talk about that sunset when we landed in Tallinn!!